Archive for the ‘Decorating’ Category
Tiling Can Take You In A New Direction
For many of you who are reading this, the likelihood is that you may be considering a change of career or you are currently actively looking to start out in a new work direction. There may indeed, be those tradesmen who have been affected by industry cutbacks to work patterns, and learning another training skill can only add to your skillset.
All the current indications show that the UK is making a forward, albeit slow recovery from recession, and the latest trade growth figures are heading in the right direction. Many Government and private development schemes around the country have been recently announced, helping the Construction industry to move forward and should be seen as reassuring signs for future work prospects.
One of the easiest and quickest ways of entering the construction industry is to train to be a professional tiler. And of course, it makes sense when it forms part of being a builder, painter and decorator. A City & Guilds NVQ Tiling qualification is relatively straightforward if you have previous hands-on experience in other types practical problem-solving work.
The three week NVQ fulltime courses are strongly recommended for obtaining a complete understanding and practical skillset for most of tiling jobs required in both domestic and commercial applications. This will invariably cover such basic skills as correct spacing, lining up the patterning or working neatly over or around a corner, step, or column, applying a screed and surface preparation before beginning the tiling itself.
At a professional skills centre, courses are built to suit all types of time schedule requirements and there’s opportunity to learn on two consecutive weekend tiling training sessions comprising an entire course of weekdays.
The good news is that these days, tiling does not mean fixing endless walls with standard plain white ceramics! The seemingly infinite varieties of patterned tiles, finishes and sizes now available on the market guarantees a different task every day.
Specialist tile courses can be taken to learn how to work with the natural products like Granite, Marble, Limestone and Slate, which have become increasingly popular as they have become more affordable.
Diamond Tip For Precision Tiling
You can always tell the difference between an experienced, professional tiler’s finish and the DIY enthusiast. It’s invariably a case of ‘nearly but not quite’! There is no substitute for possessing real insider knowledge, trained skills, and investment in quality tools.
How many times have we seen workmanship which leaves much to be desired? From a clear bodged job to a solution to a problem which may just be OK but doesn’t quite look right! Even an apparently simple action like drilling a hole is complex and you need to know every detail from nature of the material, type of drill required, speed, torque, testing, pilot holes, etc, Not to mention, resisting the temptation to buy cheap, substandard drills – and how to recognise them!
When it come to drilling holes in Porcelain tiles, the exceptionally hard and resistant material has proven to be a challenge for many a tiler. One standard way to deal with the problem was to use a TCT tipped cutter or elaborate water feed systems, but was an expensive solution.
New types of electroplated mini diamond core drill are now available, which are specifically designed to be used on porcelain. With drills ranging between 6 to 40mm, for cordless and corded drills alike, and a professional vacuum suction drill guide to help prevent skidding, they are compatible with a variety of applications, and demand amongst plumbers and tilers is especially high. The cutting edge should be kept wet at all times to optimise the durability of the diamond rim.
Recently, a mini diamond porcelain tile drill set, which features a 115mm continuous rim turbo tile blade was introduced to the market place. The body of these drills has waste slots which enable efficient plumbing spoil and slug removal.
Obtaining a complete understanding and practical skillset for just about all the tiling jobs required in both domestic and commercial applications, a three week NVQ Tiling fulltime course is a worthwhile investment. Knowledge learning covers key basic skills as correct spacing, lining up the patterning or working neatly over or around a corner, step, or column, applying a screed and surface preparation before beginning the tiling itself. If weekday training is a problem, then weekend tiling courses are always available, which offer a great opportunity to learn all the course modules.
In today’s uncertain times, one thing is always certain, a trained and qualified tradesman who offers a high standard of quality work is always in demand, whether renovating a current dwelling or installing for a new property.
Training Takes The Toiling Out Of Tiling!
Practically very DIY enthusiast has attempted a little tiling project, whether it was installing a few rows above a toilet or bathroom sink to act as a splashback or replacing the odd cracked item or even a whole line around the bath. However it is a different proposition to installing a bathroom or fitting a kitchen and/or laying a tiled floor.
The first task is to remove all the old tiling and correctly and thoroughly prepare the undersurface - you may have to apply a screed! Then there’s the all-important accurate working out of the correct spacing, lining up of the patterning and knowing how to work neatly over or around a corner, step, or column.
The amount of pre-preparation work necessary will very much depend upon the existing finish …
Brickwork - will require rendering the wall to be given a smooth finish and allow to thoroughly dry out.
Wallpaper - will need to be removed back to a solid surface, which is then washed down to remove any surface grease and dust etc.
Gloss and semi-gloss - flaking paint will have to be removed and rubbed down using wet medium grade wet-and-dry abrasive paper to take off the gloss and to provide a key for the tile adhesive.
Emulsion - flaking paint has also to be washed down and any surface grease and dust removed.
Distemper/whitewash - removed completely from plaster or alternatively, after removing any flaking areas, the surface can be treated with a stabilising primer before fixing tiles.
Existing ceramic tiles - new tiles can be fixed on top of existing tiles providing that they are firmly attached to the wall.
Timber: painted/varnished - treat as for Paint.
Bare Timber - rub down to give a smooth finish for the tiles and apply a coat of wood paint primer.
Plasterboard - Tiles are heavy so should only be mounted on plasterboard at least 12.5mm (half inch) thick that is securely mounted.
Special waterproof plasterboard is available for tiling in ‘wet areas’ (around a shower), alternatively, if using standard plasterboard, plaster skim it to seal it before tiling.
In ‘non-wet areas’, seal the paper covering of the plasterboard with a coat of emulsion paint.
This all must be undertaken before even beginning to consider laying out the tiles! The good news is that there are good quality training courses where you can be shown exactly what you need to do in order to tile easily and properly. It really is recommended, especially if interested in working with expensive natural products like Granite, Marble, Limestone and Slate as specialist training is required in order to obtain the perfect finish.
If you are thinking of a career change or adding to your current trade skills or simply wish to take up tiling professionally, you will require to qualify on a City & Guilds NVQ tiling course in order to learn the necessary knowledge and skills to become a tiler. Most courses are flexible, are of a short duration and you can even learn on weekend courses, which is particularly useful if weekdays are a problem or if inbetween employment.
Tiling Revival!
The news early in 2010 that consumer confidence was returning to the tiling industry was obviously, very much welcomed. The UK trading performance of a major tiling supplier had continued on an upward trend, seeing like-for-like revenues increase by 5.5%, with sales up 3.9%.
This is also good news for the construction industry as a whole, and for all those either looking to start a new career, or experienced tradesmen wishing extend their service skills by training to tile.
Interior tiled spaces are now enjoying widespread popularity after earlier decades of emulsion painted walls. In fact, the recent history of the tile shows an ever upward rise not seen since the Victorian era!
After the Second World War, tilemaking resumed only slowly, with mechanised production helping to cut costs. In the 1950s, the design emphasis was on geometric patterns, but some figurative designs were still made. During the 1950s-1970s, tiles were popular as an exterior facing material for public buildings.
By the 1980s, tiles were undergoing a revival and at the turn of the millennium, tiles - colourful, individual, stylish and fashionable - had become almost as popular as they were a century ago. They are again being used to decorate homes and establish company identities, with a vast range of designs available in many differing techniques.
Such is the enormous upsurge in tiling interiors, that tiling courses are heavily subscribed to by DIY enthusiasts, especially on weekend courses . For all those seriously interested to enter the construction trade industry, a complete City & Guilds NVQ Tiling course is ideal for an assured professional career start. Meanwhile, professional tradesman report increased demand for trained and qualified tilers throughout the country on many of the latest commercial newbuild projects.
What To Do When Returning To A Flooded Home
Once again, torrential weather and severe flooding is in the news with many homes subject to catastrophic water damage. Returning home to deal with the big clear up still has many hidden dangers that have to be thought out before entering the house. Think logically through a check list that draws on both some basic common sense plumbing and electrical procedures.
Check the house exterior by doing a visual walk around of your home to see if there are any downed power lines, or electrical connections that may be in contact with the water. Smell for any gas in the air as often there may be a gas leak and if you find either of these problems, call the correct utility company. If water is still around the house, check to see if the outside walls have cracked or giving way because of the water pressure being exerted on them. If there’s water still around, don’t enter the home, There’s always a chance that the walls could give way and the house could collapse around you. Be cautious around porches and overhangs. These areas may have weakened during a flood and could give way or collapse.
Disconnect the electrical and gas supplies to lessen the chance of fire, explosion or electrocution. Even if the power is out or the power supply has been disconnected from the power pole by the utility company, your electrical fuse or breaker panel’s main fuse or breaker may still be on. In this case, at any time during the day, the utility company could come back and turn the power on to your home. You may not be aware that they’ve turned the power back on and your panel is now live, subjecting you to potential shock hazards.
If the only way to disconnect the gas and power is inside the home and there’s water where you have to shut them off, don’t enter the home to do so until you can safely enter the home and the water has been removed.
Before you enter a home that has been flooded, be sure to have the proper clothing, footwear, and safety items that may be needed.
Boots : wear waterproof rubber boots or waders with hard soles. If you’re walking in muddy, water-coated floors and basements, there are likely sharp objects that you could step on.
Dust Mask : wear a mask over your mouth and nose to protect your lungs from pollutants and disease.
Gloves: wear preferably rubber gloves to handle anything in flooded areas. Materials may be a health hazard due to sewage, chemicals, and oil in the water.
Hard Hats and Protective Clothing: Loose and crumbling ceilings, falling debris, and trapped water are potential hazards to your head and body when entering a flooded home.
You are will need a First Aid Kit, Flashlight, A Dry Wooden stick ( to turn off electrical breakers, unplug cords) and cleaning supplies.
After flood waters have receded and there’s no water pressure on the walls, you can slowly pump the water, being careful not to pump it out too fast. Remember, the ground is still saturated with water and removing the internal resistant pressure on the walls may cause them to give way. Lower the water level over a period of a few days, reducing it a few feet at a time. With the power off, carefully spray the house down with water to remove a majority of the mud and muck from your home. Use disinfectant cleaners to wash walls and floors down.
Sump pump pits often fill up with mud and debris and must be cleaned up from time to time, especially following a flood.
It is important to open up the bottom of flooded walls and remove all wet material from them. Turn on fans and dehumidifiers as soon as possible to dry the home. Deadly mold can form quickly in warm and moist areas in the home. Get wet carpeting and padding out of the home as soon as possible. Get garbage, effected clothing, etc. out of the home and clear the floor space in rooms and closets. Open the windows to let the house breath. By getting the home dried out quickly, you’ll be on your way to cleaning and repairing it.
By using a pump sprayer and bleach water, you can effectively clean your home and make it sterile. The recommended mixture of water to bleach is ten to one. The water will soak into the wood and any mould will come out to the surface of the wood to be killed by the bleach.
How Do You Know If A Skills Training Centre Is Any Good?
Skills training centres seem to be popping up everywhere these days! Government encouragement of training initiatives for huge construction programmes like the 2012 Olympics - have been a catalyst for new building training centres appearing around the country. Five minutes on the internet and you can come up with a long list of training providers, all appearing to offer the same courses in obtaining trade skill qualifications, i.e. plumbing, electrical, gas, carpentry, etc.
But judging by the feedback on trade forums, the experience for many applicants has been negative and accusations of ‘ripoff’ fly around with alarming frequency!
So how do you work out the industry’s genuine, high quality training providers from the rest?
You have to do your homework! You must be prepared to spend time to conduct research by first finding out all about the course/s you wish to take then ask the right questions and see what answers you get! Ask if you can go and take look at the training facilities and speak with as many people as possible, including the tutors and especially the students currently on the course – find out directly what their experience has been!
The very first thing you can do is check their website!
- Many offer their own certificated diplomas but do they run approved City & Guilds NVQ qualification training as well?
- Check for accreditation from recognised national trade bodies in the relevant skills sectors.
- Are the site pics genuine, or are they poor quality, low res and look as though they have been taken from elsewhere?
- Generally, is the website trying to be open and transparent, offering as much information as possible about each course?
- How many training staff and are their pics and biographies available to check for approved training status?
- Do they have a feedback forum, and blog ? When was the last posting?
- How up-to-date is all the content? Does the site look regularly attended?
In other words, do you think they have proper training facilities?
You must give them a telephone call to fully satisfy yourself with regards the following:
• How long have they been around ? How do they reply to this and how much information do they tell you and how are their claims backed up?
• Is there dedicated space and equipment for each of the training subjects?
• Do the training staff possess genuine approved, recognised and accredited qualifications and credentials ? Have they substantial industry working experience ? Both the training provider as a company and all of its instructors and trainers must be fully certificated from established regulated bodies.
• How open and flexible do they appear to be ? Can you train both at home and at their premises? Is there an extensive choice of options that allow you to study and train in your own time and at your own pace? In addition to tuition, what other training aids do you get, to help with thoroughly understanding what needs to be learnt ?
• Can they offer you proper career progression through a schedule of approved City & Guilds training programmes?
• Are there Green Energy training courses in the new renewable technologies?
Even if you are just seeking to take a course, say in kitchen fitting, you need to know that the quality of training will be identical. The key is the final authorised assessments and examinations that are set in place for you to be sure you are properly trained to confidently do the work. You must ask if they are a fully accredited NVQ Assessment centre with approval to deliver qualification training from the City & Guilds, Construction Awards Alliance.
At the end of the day - you need to know what you are getting for the money? And can you be provided with options for a flexible payment plan ? Can they offer funding to help pay for the courses?
Surface finish – preparation is everything!
We’ve all done a bit of painting n’ decorating! How professional a finish can you get? Manufacturer’s are forever claiming their latest ‘one coat’ paint treatments and easy sponge or spray applicators can you save you time and money and still give you a great finish with the minimum of effort. Of course, we would like this to be true but we know there is really no substitute for rolling up your sleeves and being prepared for painstaking, patient and careful work!
AbleSkills offer decorating courses to cover everyone’s needs, level of experience and ability! Whether you fancy a weekend primer, a basic decorating Diploma to a 10 day or 6 week City & Guilds NVQ.
If you’re fed up with just bare painted walls and want to cover up with the latest funky pattern, AbleSkills even offer a dedicated wallpapering course too!
Remember – preparation and patience is everything if you want to achieving the best possible finish!
Here are a few troubleshooting basics to give you an idea of how you should approach preparation to a decorating project:
Filler : Apply too much - it makes your job harder! After applying filler, smooth with a damp sponge or wet brush to remove the stark edges. Some powder fillers (e.g. polyfilla) and most ready-mixed fillers dry very hard so apply as smoothly as possible.
If there are deep holes, filler will most likely sink below the surface. It may be necessary to fill two or three times allowing the filler to dry in between. Different fillers sink to various degrees depending on the depth to be filled. Many fillers claim on the packet that they do not shrink or crack; you should always work on the assumption that they will! AbleSkills run a patch plastering course just to help you become aware of these various problems and how to successfully deal with them.
Ceiling stained by cigarette smoke : This will show through normal emulsion/latex so the ceiling has to be sealed before painting. The stain, if very heavy, should be washed off with soap and water and then dried before a sealer is applied. Remember that the nicotine in the stain is toxic so wear protective gloves and goggles to protect your eyes.
Greasy kitchen ceiling and walls : Will need to be washed down thoroughly with sugar-soap and rinsed off and left to dry before applying any coatings. Sugar-soap is caustic so proper protective clothing must be worn to protect hands and eyes.
Efflorescence: A powdery residue coming out of stonework onto the painted surface. Encrusted soluble salts, commonly white, are deposited on the surface of coatings, stone, brick, plaster, or mortar. Usually caused by salts bleaching through from mortar or adjacent concrete as moisture moves through it. Scrape off all the loose material and before you do any filling, seal the affected area completely with an alkali-resisting primer.
Asbestos - a killer still in hiding!
Asbestos is still considered the UK’s biggest workplace killer and despite decades advertising this message, it seems a new generation of workers is at risk.
According to the Health and Safety Executive (HSE), around 25% of the 4,000 who die from asbestos-related diseases each in Britain year – approx. 20 per week - are tradesmen such as joiners, electricians and plumbers.
Across the UK, more than 35,000 people died from the asbestos-related cancer mesothelioma between 1977 and 2007 – and the numbers dying are increasing. Latest annual figures show that 2,156 people died from the disease in 2007 alone, up 5% on the previous year.
HSE has launched a £1.2 million campaign throughout November, and will send out more than 500,000 information packs as well as targeted press and radio adverts, to warn Britain’s 1.8 million tradesmen about the dangers they face. The campaign is being backed by the TUC, trade unions, trade associations, training organisations, charities and victim support groups.
The HSE reports that the one thing they hear time and again from older workers is that they were never told about the risks of working with asbestos! Research shows that tradesmen, in particular, think that asbestos is a historical problem and they are not at risk. But it is a real risk facing plumbers, joiners, electricians, painters and decorators and many other maintenance workers every day. Asbestos may be present in any building constructed or refurbished before the year 2000, and it is estimated that around 500,000 workplace premises could contain asbestos.
If tradesmen are not sure whether there is asbestos present where they are working they should stop and check. If repair and maintenance work is not done safely it can lead to asbestos fibres being released into the air by drilling or cutting, and workers breathing them in.
Students beginning their skills training on the City & Guilds Plumbing NVQ 6129 Level 2 course will learn about the dangers of asbestos, gaining knowledge in identifying all the different types of asbestos material and where they may be found in variety of building constructions. In particular, how to correctly deal with an unexpected discovery of hidden asbestos and the immediate actions that must be taken for its immediate safe disposal by the mandatory authorities.
Shiver your timbers – leaning about wood doesn’t have to go against the grain!
Much of a builder’s work is centred around handling wood, and if you’re building from scratch, then knowing what to look out for when buying lengths of wood from a timber merchant is important. At AbleSkills, many different types of course are on offer which have been put togther to cater for all types of requirements, from training over the weekends, 10 day carpentry courses or City & Guilds NVQs over an 8 week period, to the ever popular Kitchen Fitting course! And there are many other types of learning diploma courses which will help you get started.
Timber is the most sustainable building product available and is a naturally renewable resource. Over 97% of softwood timber purchased in the United Kingdom is sourced from Europe. Certification labels like PEFC - Programme for the Endorsement of Forest or FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) guarantee the renewable nature ofsoftwoods and hardwoods
There are many different purposes that timber can be used for and each purpose may call for specific characteristics. It is essential to know how strong timber is. Timber strength grading is needed to ensure timber has enough strength for a particular job, e.g. a floor joist or a roof truss. Knowing the strength of timber reduces costs by helping to avoid over-specification. Grading can be undertaken visually or by machine. Visual strength grading uses the grader’s experience across many diverse factors to estimate the load that a length of timber will be able to carry in service. Machine strength grading is best suited to high volumes of timber where the variety and cross section are not changed very often. When a piece of timber is sawn into smaller pieces, it has to be re-graded.
Machine grading is based on the link between strength and stiffness. The machine grades individual piece and stamps it with the relevant mark. The rules governing strength grading and structural uses of timber are detailed in British and European standards. A section of low grade timber cut from a strong species may be equivalent in strength to a high grade timber from a weaker tree variety. To make specifying easier, species and grades are grouped into strength categories of similar strength. Strength classes range from C14 to C50 for softwood and D30 to D70 for hardwoods. The higher the number, the stronger the timber. The most common grade for softwood carcassing is C16.
When calculating the size of a timber member is required for a particular span, the required strenth class can be identified by consulting span tables. These tables also specify what the greatest gap should be between each section or timber member.
Choosing the right sealant for the job!
Different materials often require different sealants, and there are now, numerous types available. Some of the most common types of sealants on the market include those for decks, concrete, tile grout, and walls. So how do you choose the right one for your particular job?
Below is a checklist of questions to be asked :
• Type of material it will adhere to?
• Size of gap it will fill?
• Degree of mould resistance?
• How waterproof is it?
• Can it be overpainted, or not ?
• Can it be used indoors and/or out of doors?
• Is it solvent based or does it give off fumes when curing ?
• What it is like when it is cured, i.e. solid, flexible or very flexible?
As you can see, not quite so straightforward as you first thought! If you are thinking of doing the job yourself to save money during the recession, then it’s recommended you take a short course in tiling or DIY at an approved training centre, like here at AbleSkills. It is money well spent! By getting the right information and tuition from experienced industry professionals, you get to really find out how to do the job properly. You get to be hands-on, and that means really learning from your mistakes so you will know exactly what to do when you start on your own job! Why not try if you can get onto a weekend course –they’re very popular!
Water based sealants - of which some are also waterproof - are general purpose, for indoor use. They are commonly used for filling gaps along skirting boards, around door and window frames etc. They are usually supplied in white as it can be over painted with emulsion or solvent-based paint as soon as the surface has cured.
Silicone sealants - produce a waterproof seal that can be used indoors and out. Available in white, translucence and possibly a choice of colours. These sealants give off a distinctive smell until it cures.
Kitchen and Bathroom sealant- Usually designed to seal areas where water seepage is likely (around a sink or bath etc). They need to be waterproof and mould resistant. Usually available in white.
Grout sealant- specifically designed for protecting the grout from stains and mildew, they usually are known for keeping the grout looking new and attractive
Frame sealant- for external use, silicone sealant is used as a water-resistant sealant and joint filler, formulated specifically to seal between wooden or UPVC door and window frames to the surrounding material. Silicone cannot be over painted but is available in a number of colours. For internal frame sealant, water based sealant can be used and it can be over painted once the surface of the sealant has cured.
Roof and Gutter sealant - An all-purpose exterior sealant that can be used to seal leaking joints in guttering and downpipes as well as stopping leaks in flat roofs. Generally it is only available in black.
Deck sealant - typically is best for exterior wood. Not only do deck sealants typically protect the wood from water damage such as mildew, but they should also guard it from sun damage. A penetrating deck sealant is absorbed into the material, while a film-forming sealant creates a barrier around the wood.
Concrete sealants - petroleum or water-based, they are similar to those intended for decks, but they work best on concrete .Protects from extreme weather, and can guard from salt, chemicals, and stains. Can be clear or coloured.
Polyurethane sealant – used for covering tiny cracks in a wall and usually the consistency of putty, it is known for expanding quickly after application. Fortunately, it is also both flexible and elastic, and can protect walls from water damage.
When using a sealant, always make sure that the surface is sound, dust free, and dry, the sealant is ’squeezed’ onto the surfaces and it often depends on gentle surface contact to create a bond. It is also advised that sealants be applied in an inconspicuous test spot first to avoid accidental staining of the area.
