Archive for the ‘Decorating’ Category
What To Do When Returning To A Flooded Home
Once again, torrential weather and severe flooding is in the news with many homes subject to catastrophic water damage. Returning home to deal with the big clear up still has many hidden dangers that have to be thought out before entering the house. Think logically through a check list that draws on both some basic common sense plumbing and electrical procedures.
Check the house exterior by doing a visual walk around of your home to see if there are any downed power lines, or electrical connections that may be in contact with the water. Smell for any gas in the air as often there may be a gas leak and if you find either of these problems, call the correct utility company. If water is still around the house, check to see if the outside walls have cracked or giving way because of the water pressure being exerted on them. If there’s water still around, don’t enter the home, There’s always a chance that the walls could give way and the house could collapse around you. Be cautious around porches and overhangs. These areas may have weakened during a flood and could give way or collapse.
Disconnect the electrical and gas supplies to lessen the chance of fire, explosion or electrocution. Even if the power is out or the power supply has been disconnected from the power pole by the utility company, your electrical fuse or breaker panel’s main fuse or breaker may still be on. In this case, at any time during the day, the utility company could come back and turn the power on to your home. You may not be aware that they’ve turned the power back on and your panel is now live, subjecting you to potential shock hazards.
If the only way to disconnect the gas and power is inside the home and there’s water where you have to shut them off, don’t enter the home to do so until you can safely enter the home and the water has been removed.
Before you enter a home that has been flooded, be sure to have the proper clothing, footwear, and safety items that may be needed.
Boots : wear waterproof rubber boots or waders with hard soles. If you’re walking in muddy, water-coated floors and basements, there are likely sharp objects that you could step on.
Dust Mask : wear a mask over your mouth and nose to protect your lungs from pollutants and disease.
Gloves: wear preferably rubber gloves to handle anything in flooded areas. Materials may be a health hazard due to sewage, chemicals, and oil in the water.
Hard Hats and Protective Clothing: Loose and crumbling ceilings, falling debris, and trapped water are potential hazards to your head and body when entering a flooded home.
You are will need a First Aid Kit, Flashlight, A Dry Wooden stick ( to turn off electrical breakers, unplug cords) and cleaning supplies.
After flood waters have receded and there’s no water pressure on the walls, you can slowly pump the water, being careful not to pump it out too fast. Remember, the ground is still saturated with water and removing the internal resistant pressure on the walls may cause them to give way. Lower the water level over a period of a few days, reducing it a few feet at a time. With the power off, carefully spray the house down with water to remove a majority of the mud and muck from your home. Use disinfectant cleaners to wash walls and floors down.
Sump pump pits often fill up with mud and debris and must be cleaned up from time to time, especially following a flood.
It is important to open up the bottom of flooded walls and remove all wet material from them. Turn on fans and dehumidifiers as soon as possible to dry the home. Deadly mold can form quickly in warm and moist areas in the home. Get wet carpeting and padding out of the home as soon as possible. Get garbage, effected clothing, etc. out of the home and clear the floor space in rooms and closets. Open the windows to let the house breath. By getting the home dried out quickly, you’ll be on your way to cleaning and repairing it.
By using a pump sprayer and bleach water, you can effectively clean your home and make it sterile. The recommended mixture of water to bleach is ten to one. The water will soak into the wood and any mould will come out to the surface of the wood to be killed by the bleach.
How Do You Know If A Skills Training Centre Is Any Good?
Skills training centres seem to be popping up everywhere these days! Government encouragement of training initiatives for huge construction programmes like the 2012 Olympics - have been a catalyst for new building training centres appearing around the country. Five minutes on the internet and you can come up with a long list of training providers, all appearing to offer the same courses in obtaining trade skill qualifications, i.e. plumbing, electrical, gas, carpentry, etc.
But judging by the feedback on trade forums, the experience for many applicants has been negative and accusations of ‘ripoff’ fly around with alarming frequency!
So how do you work out the industry’s genuine, high quality training providers from the rest?
You have to do your homework! You must be prepared to spend time to conduct research by first finding out all about the course/s you wish to take then ask the right questions and see what answers you get! Ask if you can go and take look at the training facilities and speak with as many people as possible, including the tutors and especially the students currently on the course – find out directly what their experience has been!
The very first thing you can do is check their website!
- Many offer their own certificated diplomas but do they run approved City & Guilds NVQ qualification training as well?
- Check for accreditation from recognised national trade bodies in the relevant skills sectors.
- Are the site pics genuine, or are they poor quality, low res and look as though they have been taken from elsewhere?
- Generally, is the website trying to be open and transparent, offering as much information as possible about each course?
- How many training staff and are their pics and biographies available to check for approved training status?
- Do they have a feedback forum, and blog ? When was the last posting?
- How up-to-date is all the content? Does the site look regularly attended?
In other words, do you think they have proper training facilities?
You must give them a telephone call to fully satisfy yourself with regards the following:
• How long have they been around ? How do they reply to this and how much information do they tell you and how are their claims backed up?
• Is there dedicated space and equipment for each of the training subjects?
• Do the training staff possess genuine approved, recognised and accredited qualifications and credentials ? Have they substantial industry working experience ? Both the training provider as a company and all of its instructors and trainers must be fully certificated from established regulated bodies.
• How open and flexible do they appear to be ? Can you train both at home and at their premises? Is there an extensive choice of options that allow you to study and train in your own time and at your own pace? In addition to tuition, what other training aids do you get, to help with thoroughly understanding what needs to be learnt ?
• Can they offer you proper career progression through a schedule of approved City & Guilds training programmes?
• Are there Green Energy training courses in the new renewable technologies?
Even if you are just seeking to take a course, say in kitchen fitting, you need to know that the quality of training will be identical. The key is the final authorised assessments and examinations that are set in place for you to be sure you are properly trained to confidently do the work. You must ask if they are a fully accredited NVQ Assessment centre with approval to deliver qualification training from the City & Guilds, Construction Awards Alliance.
At the end of the day - you need to know what you are getting for the money? And can you be provided with options for a flexible payment plan ? Can they offer funding to help pay for the courses?
Surface finish – preparation is everything!
We’ve all done a bit of painting n’ decorating! How professional a finish can you get? Manufacturer’s are forever claiming their latest ‘one coat’ paint treatments and easy sponge or spray applicators can you save you time and money and still give you a great finish with the minimum of effort. Of course, we would like this to be true but we know there is really no substitute for rolling up your sleeves and being prepared for painstaking, patient and careful work!
AbleSkills offer decorating courses to cover everyone’s needs, level of experience and ability! Whether you fancy a weekend primer, a basic decorating Diploma to a 10 day or 6 week City & Guilds NVQ.
If you’re fed up with just bare painted walls and want to cover up with the latest funky pattern, AbleSkills even offer a dedicated wallpapering course too!
Remember – preparation and patience is everything if you want to achieving the best possible finish!
Here are a few troubleshooting basics to give you an idea of how you should approach preparation to a decorating project:
Filler : Apply too much - it makes your job harder! After applying filler, smooth with a damp sponge or wet brush to remove the stark edges. Some powder fillers (e.g. polyfilla) and most ready-mixed fillers dry very hard so apply as smoothly as possible.
If there are deep holes, filler will most likely sink below the surface. It may be necessary to fill two or three times allowing the filler to dry in between. Different fillers sink to various degrees depending on the depth to be filled. Many fillers claim on the packet that they do not shrink or crack; you should always work on the assumption that they will! AbleSkills run a patch plastering course just to help you become aware of these various problems and how to successfully deal with them.
Ceiling stained by cigarette smoke : This will show through normal emulsion/latex so the ceiling has to be sealed before painting. The stain, if very heavy, should be washed off with soap and water and then dried before a sealer is applied. Remember that the nicotine in the stain is toxic so wear protective gloves and goggles to protect your eyes.
Greasy kitchen ceiling and walls : Will need to be washed down thoroughly with sugar-soap and rinsed off and left to dry before applying any coatings. Sugar-soap is caustic so proper protective clothing must be worn to protect hands and eyes.
Efflorescence: A powdery residue coming out of stonework onto the painted surface. Encrusted soluble salts, commonly white, are deposited on the surface of coatings, stone, brick, plaster, or mortar. Usually caused by salts bleaching through from mortar or adjacent concrete as moisture moves through it. Scrape off all the loose material and before you do any filling, seal the affected area completely with an alkali-resisting primer.
Asbestos - a killer still in hiding!
Asbestos is still considered the UK’s biggest workplace killer and despite decades advertising this message, it seems a new generation of workers is at risk.
According to the Health and Safety Executive (HSE), around 25% of the 4,000 who die from asbestos-related diseases each in Britain year – approx. 20 per week - are tradesmen such as joiners, electricians and plumbers.
Across the UK, more than 35,000 people died from the asbestos-related cancer mesothelioma between 1977 and 2007 – and the numbers dying are increasing. Latest annual figures show that 2,156 people died from the disease in 2007 alone, up 5% on the previous year.
HSE has launched a £1.2 million campaign throughout November, and will send out more than 500,000 information packs as well as targeted press and radio adverts, to warn Britain’s 1.8 million tradesmen about the dangers they face. The campaign is being backed by the TUC, trade unions, trade associations, training organisations, charities and victim support groups.
The HSE reports that the one thing they hear time and again from older workers is that they were never told about the risks of working with asbestos! Research shows that tradesmen, in particular, think that asbestos is a historical problem and they are not at risk. But it is a real risk facing plumbers, joiners, electricians, painters and decorators and many other maintenance workers every day. Asbestos may be present in any building constructed or refurbished before the year 2000, and it is estimated that around 500,000 workplace premises could contain asbestos.
If tradesmen are not sure whether there is asbestos present where they are working they should stop and check. If repair and maintenance work is not done safely it can lead to asbestos fibres being released into the air by drilling or cutting, and workers breathing them in.
Students beginning their skills training on the City & Guilds Plumbing NVQ 6129 Level 2 course will learn about the dangers of asbestos, gaining knowledge in identifying all the different types of asbestos material and where they may be found in variety of building constructions. In particular, how to correctly deal with an unexpected discovery of hidden asbestos and the immediate actions that must be taken for its immediate safe disposal by the mandatory authorities.
Shiver your timbers – leaning about wood doesn’t have to go against the grain!
Much of a builder’s work is centred around handling wood, and if you’re building from scratch, then knowing what to look out for when buying lengths of wood from a timber merchant is important. At AbleSkills, many different types of course are on offer which have been put togther to cater for all types of requirements, from training over the weekends, 10 day carpentry courses or City & Guilds NVQs over an 8 week period, to the ever popular Kitchen Fitting course! And there are many other types of learning diploma courses which will help you get started.
Timber is the most sustainable building product available and is a naturally renewable resource. Over 97% of softwood timber purchased in the United Kingdom is sourced from Europe. Certification labels like PEFC - Programme for the Endorsement of Forest or FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) guarantee the renewable nature ofsoftwoods and hardwoods
There are many different purposes that timber can be used for and each purpose may call for specific characteristics. It is essential to know how strong timber is. Timber strength grading is needed to ensure timber has enough strength for a particular job, e.g. a floor joist or a roof truss. Knowing the strength of timber reduces costs by helping to avoid over-specification. Grading can be undertaken visually or by machine. Visual strength grading uses the grader’s experience across many diverse factors to estimate the load that a length of timber will be able to carry in service. Machine strength grading is best suited to high volumes of timber where the variety and cross section are not changed very often. When a piece of timber is sawn into smaller pieces, it has to be re-graded.
Machine grading is based on the link between strength and stiffness. The machine grades individual piece and stamps it with the relevant mark. The rules governing strength grading and structural uses of timber are detailed in British and European standards. A section of low grade timber cut from a strong species may be equivalent in strength to a high grade timber from a weaker tree variety. To make specifying easier, species and grades are grouped into strength categories of similar strength. Strength classes range from C14 to C50 for softwood and D30 to D70 for hardwoods. The higher the number, the stronger the timber. The most common grade for softwood carcassing is C16.
When calculating the size of a timber member is required for a particular span, the required strenth class can be identified by consulting span tables. These tables also specify what the greatest gap should be between each section or timber member.
Choosing the right sealant for the job!
Different materials often require different sealants, and there are now, numerous types available. Some of the most common types of sealants on the market include those for decks, concrete, tile grout, and walls. So how do you choose the right one for your particular job?
Below is a checklist of questions to be asked :
• Type of material it will adhere to?
• Size of gap it will fill?
• Degree of mould resistance?
• How waterproof is it?
• Can it be overpainted, or not ?
• Can it be used indoors and/or out of doors?
• Is it solvent based or does it give off fumes when curing ?
• What it is like when it is cured, i.e. solid, flexible or very flexible?
As you can see, not quite so straightforward as you first thought! If you are thinking of doing the job yourself to save money during the recession, then it’s recommended you take a short course in tiling or DIY at an approved training centre, like here at AbleSkills. It is money well spent! By getting the right information and tuition from experienced industry professionals, you get to really find out how to do the job properly. You get to be hands-on, and that means really learning from your mistakes so you will know exactly what to do when you start on your own job! Why not try if you can get onto a weekend course –they’re very popular!
Water based sealants - of which some are also waterproof - are general purpose, for indoor use. They are commonly used for filling gaps along skirting boards, around door and window frames etc. They are usually supplied in white as it can be over painted with emulsion or solvent-based paint as soon as the surface has cured.
Silicone sealants - produce a waterproof seal that can be used indoors and out. Available in white, translucence and possibly a choice of colours. These sealants give off a distinctive smell until it cures.
Kitchen and Bathroom sealant- Usually designed to seal areas where water seepage is likely (around a sink or bath etc). They need to be waterproof and mould resistant. Usually available in white.
Grout sealant- specifically designed for protecting the grout from stains and mildew, they usually are known for keeping the grout looking new and attractive
Frame sealant- for external use, silicone sealant is used as a water-resistant sealant and joint filler, formulated specifically to seal between wooden or UPVC door and window frames to the surrounding material. Silicone cannot be over painted but is available in a number of colours. For internal frame sealant, water based sealant can be used and it can be over painted once the surface of the sealant has cured.
Roof and Gutter sealant - An all-purpose exterior sealant that can be used to seal leaking joints in guttering and downpipes as well as stopping leaks in flat roofs. Generally it is only available in black.
Deck sealant - typically is best for exterior wood. Not only do deck sealants typically protect the wood from water damage such as mildew, but they should also guard it from sun damage. A penetrating deck sealant is absorbed into the material, while a film-forming sealant creates a barrier around the wood.
Concrete sealants - petroleum or water-based, they are similar to those intended for decks, but they work best on concrete .Protects from extreme weather, and can guard from salt, chemicals, and stains. Can be clear or coloured.
Polyurethane sealant – used for covering tiny cracks in a wall and usually the consistency of putty, it is known for expanding quickly after application. Fortunately, it is also both flexible and elastic, and can protect walls from water damage.
When using a sealant, always make sure that the surface is sound, dust free, and dry, the sealant is ’squeezed’ onto the surfaces and it often depends on gentle surface contact to create a bond. It is also advised that sealants be applied in an inconspicuous test spot first to avoid accidental staining of the area.
Putty Training! Plumbers love it!
Plumbers possess many special tools to ply their trade. From Stillson wrenches to pipe cutters and benders, all indispensable, they couldn’t do the jobs without them!
If you’re looking to train to be a plumber, one item you are bound to already know about - as you will always find at least one example in a plumber’s tool bag - is the humble piece of putty! A permanent piece of handy kit for those training to be a builder or decorator too, has often got many a plumber out of trouble!
Plumber’s putty is a soft, pliable substance used to create watertight seals around taps and drains, often used when plumbing fixtures are replaced – and should not be confused with a type of plumber’s tape, which is used to seal threaded pipe joints!
In fact, on jobs when putty is not to be used, e.g. sealing pipes or fixtures that will be under pressure from water because the seal will not hold, then pipes should be sealed using plumber’s tape or a liquid pipe compound.
Different brands of plumber’s putty often contain different ingredients. Many products make use of some type of clay as a base ingredient. Linseed oil is also a common additive. Other formulas include limestone, a blend of fish oils, or talc.
Plumbing training courses are bound to show you how to properly – and sparingly - use this amazingly versatile ‘plumber’s mate’- when you are receiving practical training in the workshops. When working with it, you will notice that the putty remains soft and pliable for a relatively long period of time. This is especially useful for where a watertight, but reversible, seal is preferred.
Plumber’s putty is most often used for creating a seal for taps and drains, and is also sometimes applied in the installation of sinks, although it is not always recommended to use putty to seal a sink, as it does not provide a secure enough seal. In some cases, plumber’s putty can stain the material the sink is made from and silicon caulk may be a better option.
A line of putty is applied to the area surrounding the insert for the body of the sink and the excess wiped off. The lip of the sink rests on the edges of the insert after the sink is slipped into place. By adhering sinks with plumber’s putty, it is possible to create a tight bond between the counter top and the sink that will prevent any water seeping into the area directly under the counter.
If you are thinking of undertaking a bathroom or kitchen project - besides doing the sensible thing and taking a short DIY training course to learn to do it properly - don’t forget the plumber’s putty! Purchased at hardware stores, putty is relatively inexpensive and will enhance the quality of the plumbing work while cutting down on the potential for leaks.
Check your house now and avoid nasty problems over Winter!
Autumm is with us once again! And the 6 monthly check of your home before winter sets in! That’s right - if you want to avoid being part of the usual news statistics which every year tell us how many people were caught short by burst water pipes, non-functioning radiators, overflowing gutters and fallen aerials, now is the time to do something about it!
Like regular vehicle servicing according to mileage, ideally, you should inspection your property with an increased list of items to check every 6 and 12 months. You will also be due for a major house MOT at 5 years too! In this way, you avoid unecessary problems and save money - just by carrying out a little regular maintenance.
If you’re not sure about carrying these checks out, then AbleSkills has all sorts of short Handyman courses which can give you practical advice on electrics, plumbing, heating and decorating issues.
House checks should be made in Spring and Autumn and by doing a check NOW, you can put anything right which will prevent having those bigger problems during the winter.
Exterior Checks - mostly a ground level check is sufficient to detect some sign of a problem.
• Windows and doors - lightly oil hinges and locks.
• Gates – are they closing and latching securely with signs of stiff or sticking hinges?
• Airbricks - are they clear ?
• Building ground level - has it built up anywhere bridging the damp proof course or blocking an air brick ?
• TV aerials and masts - do they still look secured and well attached ?
• Cables from any TV aerials and masts - are they all secured fast to the wall ?
• Paths and patios etc for any build up of moss or weeds - if they need cleaning, use a pressure washer.
• Water dripping from overflows.
• Woodwork around the garden (gates, fences, sheds etc) - is anything loose (fence panels etc) or showing signs of rot (especially check each fence post and the rails), does anything need a coat or paint or preservative?
• Gutters –check and clear leaves, twigs, silt, along pipes , junctions, down pipe openings and grills.
• Drainpipe grills – clear any and all obstruction in the form of leaves, silt, gravel, twigs ..etc
Interior checks – you must call a professional qualified plumber or a GasSafe card carrying gas fitter to carry out the checks below:
• Radiators –fully operational and responsive – need air bleeding or blockage clearing ?
• Boiler – correctly programmed and working.
• Thermostats - correctly programmed and working.
• Water Tank & Pipework – fully and securely insulated throughout – check for loose lagging.
• Dripping taps in and outside of the house - it is easy to become used to these but they do need to be rectified.
Play Your CSCS card right and you’ll be qualified to work on-site!
Health & Safety on site – irrespective of working in domestic or commercial premises, has come a long way in recent years. Whether you work on major building developments or in households, you must show proof that you have undergone awareness training of the issues that can make the difference between safe and dangerous working. Most large sites require you to undertake an ‘induction’ session as well, even before you are allowed to work.
It has become standard to alert and reassure the public that a building firm is part of a ‘Safe Construction’ scheme with large signs showing exactly who is and who is not allowed on site and the regulatory clothing/equipment necessary. At the very least this means: hard hat, steel-tipped boots and hi-vis vest.
Increasingly, Government legislation has been put into place to ensure that everyone working within the construction industry has received sufficient Health & Safety awareness training and can show proof of training by holding a ‘Construction Services Certification Scheme’ (CSCS) Card. The likelihood is that you will not be allowed access to most UK construction sites and this may affect your ability to generally work within the industry!
Obtaining your CSCS card will require you to sit an online multiple choice test, which are held at an approved skills training centre. This applies to everyone from an entrant with no formal construction qualifications right through to a Skilled worker card, once NVQ level 2 is achieved. You would need to ensure that your trade is covered by CSCS as each card will be colour coded accordingly :
Green (site operative) - No formal construction qualifications.
Red (trainee) - NVQ or Construction Award registered (but not yet qualified)
Blue (skilled) - NVQ Level 2 Experienced Worker ( minimum 1 year job experience) - temporary, non-renewable only.
- NVQ Level 2 Qualified ( Skilled worker) – permanent.
If you are not qualified in a specific subject, Able Skills has a dedicated Health and Safety advisor, IOSH & NEBOSH Certified, always available to provide you with the training to help you pass your Health and Safety examination. Remember - Terms of Employment even with a company mostly working within domestic dwellings are likely to be dependent on possessing a CSCS card!
Wherever you decide to take Health & Safety course, it is strongly advised to enquire as to the expertise and qualification of the health and safety trainer being provided. A qualified instructor will ensure that all areas of site health and safety are covered and all learning material relevant for the test for when you are working on site. Even if you are only looking to cover a variety of non-specific trade tasks, a 1 day training course will cover the necessary requirement to gain a Site Operative card.
Tiling Membranes give total waterproofing protection.
Learning to tile is only one aspect of understanding how environmental impacts on surface behaviour affect tile coverings, especially when dealing with the floor.
At the AbleSkills training centre, a number of excellent courses are provided for both DIY tiling, great techniques and tips on a weekend course - and those wishing to train at NVQ level to be a professional trade tiler, plus courses to specifically deal with the different types of ground paving.
It is always recommended to obtain a little practical hands-on training, guided by experienced, skilled tutors who also give you background knowledge to tackling particular building tasks, if you are serious about undertaking a task like tiling a floor.
Before commencing work on floor projects, close investigation and assessment is vital in order to avoid very serious problems occurring if basic work is not correctly attended to on an underlying ground surface.
Waterproofing is essential, from the smallest household. Buildings need reliable membranes that retain the dryness of the concrete, masonry, metal and wood structures and make it safe against the attack from salts, alkalis and from certain acids.
Polyethylene is the most commonly used material for practically all applications, although you may still find older premises where roofing felt was often used as a membrane.
There is almost certainly going to be one of two likely situations which call for the installation of a ‘membrane’:
Extreme moisture - A waterproofing membrane prevents any water from seeping through grout and even through concrete backing board if a floor is likely to become very wet and damaging the wooden flooring beneath it.
A substrate that may shift or crack – an isolation membrane can prevent cracks from transferring through to the tile or grout if slight shifts of a substrate are likely.
A professional-quality waterproofing membrane composed of two layers, one fibrous and the other made of modified bitumen, should be specified for floors that will be exposed to standing water for prolonged periods. For maximum protection against cracks, use an isolation membrane composed of a layer of polymer and a reinforced fibre sheet.
Trowel-applied and sheet membranes - Any membrane must firmly bond with the substrate, using either paste or mortar. A “trowel-applied” membrane comes in two parts, the membrane and the adhesive or paste. One type has a temporary paper backing. Paste is also used with a type of membrane, used for cracks only, that consists of a narrow roll of mesh tape. A “sheet membrane” is applied in much the same way, except that it is set in thinset mortar rather than adhesive.
