Archive for October, 2009
Choosing the right sealant for the job!
Different materials often require different sealants, and there are now, numerous types available. Some of the most common types of sealants on the market include those for decks, concrete, tile grout, and walls. So how do you choose the right one for your particular job?
Below is a checklist of questions to be asked :
• Type of material it will adhere to?
• Size of gap it will fill?
• Degree of mould resistance?
• How waterproof is it?
• Can it be overpainted, or not ?
• Can it be used indoors and/or out of doors?
• Is it solvent based or does it give off fumes when curing ?
• What it is like when it is cured, i.e. solid, flexible or very flexible?
As you can see, not quite so straightforward as you first thought! If you are thinking of doing the job yourself to save money during the recession, then it’s recommended you take a short course in tiling or DIY at an approved training centre, like here at AbleSkills. It is money well spent! By getting the right information and tuition from experienced industry professionals, you get to really find out how to do the job properly. You get to be hands-on, and that means really learning from your mistakes so you will know exactly what to do when you start on your own job! Why not try if you can get onto a weekend course –they’re very popular!
Water based sealants - of which some are also waterproof - are general purpose, for indoor use. They are commonly used for filling gaps along skirting boards, around door and window frames etc. They are usually supplied in white as it can be over painted with emulsion or solvent-based paint as soon as the surface has cured.
Silicone sealants - produce a waterproof seal that can be used indoors and out. Available in white, translucence and possibly a choice of colours. These sealants give off a distinctive smell until it cures.
Kitchen and Bathroom sealant- Usually designed to seal areas where water seepage is likely (around a sink or bath etc). They need to be waterproof and mould resistant. Usually available in white.
Grout sealant- specifically designed for protecting the grout from stains and mildew, they usually are known for keeping the grout looking new and attractive
Frame sealant- for external use, silicone sealant is used as a water-resistant sealant and joint filler, formulated specifically to seal between wooden or UPVC door and window frames to the surrounding material. Silicone cannot be over painted but is available in a number of colours. For internal frame sealant, water based sealant can be used and it can be over painted once the surface of the sealant has cured.
Roof and Gutter sealant - An all-purpose exterior sealant that can be used to seal leaking joints in guttering and downpipes as well as stopping leaks in flat roofs. Generally it is only available in black.
Deck sealant - typically is best for exterior wood. Not only do deck sealants typically protect the wood from water damage such as mildew, but they should also guard it from sun damage. A penetrating deck sealant is absorbed into the material, while a film-forming sealant creates a barrier around the wood.
Concrete sealants - petroleum or water-based, they are similar to those intended for decks, but they work best on concrete .Protects from extreme weather, and can guard from salt, chemicals, and stains. Can be clear or coloured.
Polyurethane sealant – used for covering tiny cracks in a wall and usually the consistency of putty, it is known for expanding quickly after application. Fortunately, it is also both flexible and elastic, and can protect walls from water damage.
When using a sealant, always make sure that the surface is sound, dust free, and dry, the sealant is ’squeezed’ onto the surfaces and it often depends on gentle surface contact to create a bond. It is also advised that sealants be applied in an inconspicuous test spot first to avoid accidental staining of the area.
Part P - not qualified to register for it ? So do you actually know what you’re legally allowed to do and not to do ?
For nearly five years, Part P of the Building Regulations has been in force for all personnel carrying out electrical work in homes and gardens in England and Wales. The issue of an Electrical Installation Certificate that complies with Building Regulation requirements, to self-certify own work was introduced to reduce the 2, 200 deaths, injuries and fires caused by faulty electrical installations in the UK every year, and to make it harder for ‘cowboy builders’ to leave electrical installations in an unsafe condition.
However, there is still confusion today on what electrical work can be safely and legally carried out if you are not registered for Part P. Although Part P was designed to enforce standards and increase safety, often lack of understanding or clarity has meant merely insisting that an electrician is part of a competent persons scheme. This is not true and you do need to notify before you begin work on an installation.
Part P applies to all fixed electrical installations after the suppliers’ meter in buildings or parts of buildings comprising:
• Dwellings, houses and flats.
• Dwellings and business premises such as shops and public houses that have a common meter supply e.g. a shop or public house with a flat / rooms above.
• Common access areas in blocks of flats such as corridors and staircases but not lifts shared amenities in blocks of flats, such as laundries and gymnasiums.
• Outbuildings such as a garage, shed, workshop etc. or any associated land or building with / adjacent with the property. This even includes garden lighting and fishpond pumps!.
While Approved Documentation ‘P’ applies to all electrical installation work in dwellings, it is not necessary to notify building control bodies when electrical installation work is ‘Minor Work’ and is not contained within the kitchen or special location and does not involve a special installation.
In addition: You do not need to tell your local authority’s Building Control Department about:
• Repairs, replacements and maintenance work (like for like).
• Extra power points or lighting points.
• Other alterations to existing circuits (except in a kitchen or bathroom, or outdoors).
You need to tell them about most other work. If you are not sure about this, or you have any questions, ask your local authority’s Building Control Department.
Able Skills offers a special combined 10 week Plumbing and Electrical course to include Plumbing qualifications as well as Electrical Domestic Installer qualifications.
It will guide you through the City & Guilds 6129 level 2 Plumbing Technical Certificate followed by Electrical training to give you guidance and qualifications to register as a competent person for the purposes of domestic installations (Part P). Upon completion, the next step will be to obtain the Domestic Installer Qualification which will enable you to register for Part P.
If you’re ex-Armed Forces, then you’re fighting fit to go on trade skills manoeuvres!
Current concerns are for British soldiers who are serving in various foreign locations. But the return to these shores and leaving the army often means a new fight is on their hands to establish a livelihood, especially during the prolonged recession.
However, the construction industry has been a much favoured, traditional route for ex-Armed Forces personnel. Many army soldiers were trained in aspects of engineering and already have a natural, practical hands-on understanding that can be readily applied to the key plumbing and electrical trade construction skills.
Being physically fit for some of the more demanding challenges of the building or plumbing industry – installing boilers, bending pipes and laying lead roofing are obvious examples - is of course, a great advantage, too! It might even be said that renewable energy installations of ground or air source heat pumps are the kind of practical challenge that a trained army serviceman would most likely find to be a satisfying job to undertake.
AbleSkills have been welcoming service personnel for many years – and indeed, there are experienced and approved tutors running courses, who themselves are ex-army – and may begin their training at multiskills level or go straight on to a City and Guilds NVQ Level 2 course in plumbing or electricals or gas training.
At Ableskills, a number of schemes are available to help those students with financial support where required and The Enhanced Learning Credits Scheme (ELC) is aimed at eligible ex-Armed Forces students who are taking their initial educational or vocational training further onto Level 3 or above.
In addition, Service Leavers will be able to use their Individual Resettlement Training Cost (IRTC) grant in connection with Enhanced Learning Credit (ELC) to pay for the same higher level qualification courses.
Providing vital assistance in everyway possible to assist service leavers to be able to retrain and have somewhere comfortable to stay, has always been important to AbleSkills, paying great detail and effort to satisfying the requirements of resettlement training allowances. AbleSkills have staff in place to guide and help make the resettlement process ,which can be lengthy and complicated, as smooth as possible. The first job will be to deal with your MOD Form 1746, when you arrive! So, whether there is a 20 or 35 days time allocation, there are a number of course options with different durations, even weekend training available.
As mentioned earlier above, AbleSkills have a number of staff who are ex-servicemen themselves and have also taught within the services! They are also Assessors and Internal verifiers and this ensures, not only a great reassuring welcome is extended, but also the standard of training provides the right kind of ‘ammo’ needed for gaining skilled trade qualifications and building a new career.
Plumbers know the difference between a Stillson and a Monkey wrench!
You might think that there’s no difference! Or so insignificant that it’s a rather minor, even silly piece of information to know! But in fact you may be wrong!
Often described by their size, i.e. 18″ wrenches are known as ‘18s’ - the previously common term ‘Stillson’ or ‘set of Stillsons’ is being replaced in everyday speech by the term ‘monkey wrench’, although this is actually, not technically correct ! The term ‘monkey wrench’ refers to a now rarely used type of adjustable wrench that was designed for use with nuts rather than with round pipes.
So, could still be the cause of error, confusion and possible incorrect applications leading to mishaps or accidents. Approved City & Guilds NVQ Plumbing training courses are careful to impart the right information on the correct type and use of tools for particular applications. Even weekend or short DIY courses will ensure that the right tool for the right job is taught.
Thus, it really is important to discover that the pipe wrench - or Stillson wrench - is an adjustable tool used for turning soft iron pipes and fittings with a rounded surface. The design of the adjustable jaw allows it to rock in the frame, so any forward pressure on the handle tends to pull the jaws tighter together. Teeth angled in the direction of turn dig into the soft pipe.
They are not intended for use on hard hex nuts because they would ruin the head. However, when a hex nut becomes rounded beyond use with standard wrenches, the pipe wrench is sometimes used to break the bolt or nut free. It’s very probably for this reason that the confusion may have arisen.
Getting the term right is important when buying the tool you require! Pipe wrenches are usually sold in the following sizes (by length of handle): 10, 14, 18, 24, 36, and 48 inches, although smaller and larger sizes are available as well. They are usually made of either steel or aluminium. Teeth, and jaw kits (which also contain adjustment rings and springs) can be bought to repair broken wrenches, as this is cheaper than buying a new wrench.
There are a number of similar looking tools that a plumber will use, say when shaping lead for roof weatherings, but each one performs their own particular function, so it’s good discipline to get into the habit of only using the right tool for the job each time.
Putty Training! Plumbers love it!
Plumbers possess many special tools to ply their trade. From Stillson wrenches to pipe cutters and benders, all indispensable, they couldn’t do the jobs without them!
If you’re looking to train to be a plumber, one item you are bound to already know about - as you will always find at least one example in a plumber’s tool bag - is the humble piece of putty! A permanent piece of handy kit for those training to be a builder or decorator too, has often got many a plumber out of trouble!
Plumber’s putty is a soft, pliable substance used to create watertight seals around taps and drains, often used when plumbing fixtures are replaced – and should not be confused with a type of plumber’s tape, which is used to seal threaded pipe joints!
In fact, on jobs when putty is not to be used, e.g. sealing pipes or fixtures that will be under pressure from water because the seal will not hold, then pipes should be sealed using plumber’s tape or a liquid pipe compound.
Different brands of plumber’s putty often contain different ingredients. Many products make use of some type of clay as a base ingredient. Linseed oil is also a common additive. Other formulas include limestone, a blend of fish oils, or talc.
Plumbing training courses are bound to show you how to properly – and sparingly - use this amazingly versatile ‘plumber’s mate’- when you are receiving practical training in the workshops. When working with it, you will notice that the putty remains soft and pliable for a relatively long period of time. This is especially useful for where a watertight, but reversible, seal is preferred.
Plumber’s putty is most often used for creating a seal for taps and drains, and is also sometimes applied in the installation of sinks, although it is not always recommended to use putty to seal a sink, as it does not provide a secure enough seal. In some cases, plumber’s putty can stain the material the sink is made from and silicon caulk may be a better option.
A line of putty is applied to the area surrounding the insert for the body of the sink and the excess wiped off. The lip of the sink rests on the edges of the insert after the sink is slipped into place. By adhering sinks with plumber’s putty, it is possible to create a tight bond between the counter top and the sink that will prevent any water seeping into the area directly under the counter.
If you are thinking of undertaking a bathroom or kitchen project - besides doing the sensible thing and taking a short DIY training course to learn to do it properly - don’t forget the plumber’s putty! Purchased at hardware stores, putty is relatively inexpensive and will enhance the quality of the plumbing work while cutting down on the potential for leaks.
New City & Guilds 2357 Level 3 Electrical NVQ
A while back it was announced that both the the City & Guilds 2330 NVQ Level 2 and the City & Guilds 2356 NVQ Level 3 are shortly both to be replaced with a single qualification, to be called the City & Guilds 2357 Level 3.
If you are currently seeking to train as a fully qualified electrician, Able Skills offers you the opportunity to fast track with just 10 weeks of intensive training which will speed up your entry to a career in the electrical industry.
The City & Guilds 2330 Level 2 electrical qualification is the officially approved training course, which covers the basic essential principles of statutory regulations, practical skills and science required for electrical installation. Split between 3 core units of four modules, the course is equally divided between theory learning and practical training.
The City & Guilds 2356 Level 3 is a further stage in an electrical training career and in order to qualify for assessment you must already hold, either :
• City & Guilds 2360 Parts 1 & 2 or
• City & Guilds 2351 or
• City & Guilds 2330 Level 3
It is also a suitable programme for mature applicants with relevant electrical industry experience seeking a recognised qualification.
The Course consists of eight units and three projects with final Assessment based on:
• A portfolio of mandatory ‘on-site’ work based evidence.
• Observation in the workplace.
• Written and oral questioning.
Currently the new electrotechnical units are being written and are as yet unnamed but is reasonable to expect the EAL to be the first awarding body to release the official finalised units.
In contrast, City and Guilds are writing the Plumbing units and will be approving the electrotechnical units only, and there does not appear to be a level 2 equivalent. Due to be signed off in the last quarter of 2009, there are currently 8 knowledge units still in development and subject to change at any point. There will be post implementation reviews of the units after they have been launched, indicated for sometime in November 2010.
Cash Back solar energy panels means cheaper heating plus sell your surplus energy back to the grid.
The surge in interest to install ‘green’ energy-efficient water heating systems has been causing some confusion over what’s the best and most economic system available on the market. A real contender has to be the Solar energy solution, i.e photovoltaic (PV) systems that convert sunlight into electricity! Please note that this method is different from solar thermal systems that simply heat water.
At AbleSkills, Solar Energy courses have been taught for some years now, giving experienced plumbers and those training to be a plumber, invaluable opportunity to learn and become fully proficient in installing what is undoubtedly, one of the rapidly emerging ‘green energy’ technologies. Another important course, also available - which reflects AbleSkills concern for taking responsibility in helping to promote approved energy efficiency training – is Air and Ground Source Heat Pumps.
Solar PV could provide 30-40% of the UK’s total electricity needs by 2050, reducing CO2 emissions by 15% a year. An average domestic system ( 1.8kWp PV system) can provide at least 25% of a household’s energy. Ten per cent of properties in Germany have a solar power system, i.e. 1,500MW installed last year alone!
The cost for such a high calibre, super -efficient system has been somewhat prohibitive for some household budgets but the good news from UK solar module manufacturers is that prices for solar panels have been steadily dropping and are now 30% cheaper than this time last year!
In April 2010, the ‘Clean Energy Cash Back Scheme’ is due for launch. This means that domestic PV installations are guaranteed to receive 36.5 pence per kw hour of unused electricity they supply back to the grid. In addition, you may be legible for a grant of £ 2, 500 per household via the Low Carbon Buildings Programme, available until April.
Beyond the traditional silicon crystalline cell panels you may have seen, there are now different types on the market, from simple sleek-looking bolt-on models to those that have been designed to look like normal roof tiles and are integral to the roof .
Solar PV systems are also one of the renewable energy sources that you can have installed with minimum fuss! You can put them on your roof without the usual kind of problems you might expect from your local planning department - or imagining you are undertaking a major civil engineering project!
Check your house now and avoid nasty problems over Winter!
Autumm is with us once again! And the 6 monthly check of your home before winter sets in! That’s right - if you want to avoid being part of the usual news statistics which every year tell us how many people were caught short by burst water pipes, non-functioning radiators, overflowing gutters and fallen aerials, now is the time to do something about it!
Like regular vehicle servicing according to mileage, ideally, you should inspection your property with an increased list of items to check every 6 and 12 months. You will also be due for a major house MOT at 5 years too! In this way, you avoid unecessary problems and save money - just by carrying out a little regular maintenance.
If you’re not sure about carrying these checks out, then AbleSkills has all sorts of short Handyman courses which can give you practical advice on electrics, plumbing, heating and decorating issues.
House checks should be made in Spring and Autumn and by doing a check NOW, you can put anything right which will prevent having those bigger problems during the winter.
Exterior Checks - mostly a ground level check is sufficient to detect some sign of a problem.
• Windows and doors - lightly oil hinges and locks.
• Gates – are they closing and latching securely with signs of stiff or sticking hinges?
• Airbricks - are they clear ?
• Building ground level - has it built up anywhere bridging the damp proof course or blocking an air brick ?
• TV aerials and masts - do they still look secured and well attached ?
• Cables from any TV aerials and masts - are they all secured fast to the wall ?
• Paths and patios etc for any build up of moss or weeds - if they need cleaning, use a pressure washer.
• Water dripping from overflows.
• Woodwork around the garden (gates, fences, sheds etc) - is anything loose (fence panels etc) or showing signs of rot (especially check each fence post and the rails), does anything need a coat or paint or preservative?
• Gutters –check and clear leaves, twigs, silt, along pipes , junctions, down pipe openings and grills.
• Drainpipe grills – clear any and all obstruction in the form of leaves, silt, gravel, twigs ..etc
Interior checks – you must call a professional qualified plumber or a GasSafe card carrying gas fitter to carry out the checks below:
• Radiators –fully operational and responsive – need air bleeding or blockage clearing ?
• Boiler – correctly programmed and working.
• Thermostats - correctly programmed and working.
• Water Tank & Pipework – fully and securely insulated throughout – check for loose lagging.
• Dripping taps in and outside of the house - it is easy to become used to these but they do need to be rectified.
Landlord’s legal duty to use a qualified electrician for tenants’ safety.
Quick-fix, cheap electrical repairs and installations have often been seen as a common and permanent feature of landlord property maintenance ( or non-maintenance!) and some of the more extreme horror stories do surface into the popular press from time to time! Of course, this may only really be applicable to a certain end of the property rental market, but nevertheless, it has to be said, it is both dangerous and illegal for a landlord to employ a general odd-job man to handle electrical work without the proper qualifications and approved training.
A landlord has duties both as a ’supplier of goods’ and as the ‘person responsible’ for an electrical installation. As a ’supplier of goods’ he must ensure that goods are checked before the tenant commences their use and as a ‘person responsible’ he must ensure an adequate system of maintenance.
There is an array of specialist equipment designed specifically to complete IEE test regimes for PAT testing (portable and fixed electrical equipment). A regular inspection programme is an essential part of any maintenance system.
A statutory duty is imposed on landlords by two main Acts of Parliament relating to the safety of electrical equipment:
(i) The Consumer Protection Act 1987
The Consumer Protection Act affects all persons who let property in the course of their business because it defines them as “suppliers”, i.e. they are supplying goods
to the tenant. There are several items of secondary legislation under the umbrella of the Consumer Protection Act which are directly relevant to the supply of electrical goods, including:
The Low Voltage Electrical Equipment Regulations 1989
The Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994
The General Product Safety Regulations 1994
The Plugs and Sockets etc. (Safety) Regulations 1994
(ii) The Health and Safety at Work etc. Act 1974
The Health and Safety at Work Act places a duty of care upon both employer and employee to ensure the safety of all persons using the work premises.
Several recent regulations explicitly extended their requirements to cover ‘self employed persons’ and ‘all persons affected by their operations’.
In the Electricity at Work Regulations, a self-employed person is defined as follows:
‘A self-employed person is an individual who works for gain or reward otherwise than under a contract of employment whether or not he employs others.’
This definition would appear to apply to landlords and agents. Tenants would also appear to be a group of persons affected by the landlord’s operations. This tends to suggest that electrical regulations, which are mainly directed at employers and the work place, are equally applicable to landlords, their premises and their tenants.
To summarise - a landlord has a legal requirement to ensure that all electrical equipment supplied by him is safe for use by the tenant. Secondly, only a legally and fully qualified electrician can undertake to carry out electrical work within a landlord’s property.
Condensing Boilers are ‘Green’ to Go!
Training to be plumber is going green! And learning to install ‘energy-efficient water heating and lighting systems in the bid to cut down emissions and reduce our carbon footprint. A whopping quarter of heating bills can be reduced by replacing your boiler and heating controls. Boilers account for around 60% of the carbon dioxide emissions in a gas heated home.
By replacing an old G rated boiler with a new high efficiency condensing boiler and improving your heating controls, you will significantly cut your home’s carbon dioxide emissions and could save as much as £275 a year and 1.7 tonnes of CO2.If you already have heating controls and just need to replace your boiler, you could save around £170. Throughout the UK, we would save enough energy to heat nearly 1.9 million homes for a whole year and save around 6.7 million tonnes of CO2.
As an intrinsic part of the City & Guilds Plumbing 6129 NVQ Level 2 course, trainee plumbers undertake training in both the theory and installation of boiler heating systems. This will include the new super-efficient ‘green’ condensing boiler, which gets its name from periodically operating in “condensing mode”. The heat exchanger makes sure that as much heat as possible is transferred from the boiler’s burner - and as little as possible lost in gases through the flue, turning water vapour from the gas back into liquid water or ‘condensate’. A condensing boiler captures much more usable heat from its fuel than a non-condensing boiler.
A qualified installer will tell you which of the two types of condensing boiler- regular or combination - is most suitable for your home.
A combination boiler is most suitable for smaller homes and can be more efficient because of the way it supplies hot water to your home. Other types of boilers produce hot water and then store it in a cylinder for use as and when. This is quite an efficient process - but if the hot water is not used immediately, then inevitably some heat will be wasted. It’s important to have any gas or oil fired appliance like a boiler serviced once a year. The flue will need to be checked to make sure it is clear, and your registered installer will also check that your boiler is running safely and efficiently for you.
